Brunello di Montalcino, Fuligni 2018

The Fuligni 2018 Brunello di Montalcino stands out for its smooth integration of aromas and the carefully balanced intensity achieved here, which shows momentum but also remains very fine and nuanced. There are many sides to the bouquet with wild fruit, cassis, crushed stone, candied orange and fresh herbs or rosemary. A floral note also appears that suggests rose or iris root. The tannins are very well managed and silky. You hardly feel them, yet the wine offers firm structure throughout. This is a production of 35,000 bottles and one I am happy to recommend. 2025-2042

Under the leadership of Maria Flora Fuligni since 1971, along with her long-time right-hand Dr Daniela Perino - now the estate’s CEO - Fuligni is one of the denomination’s most consistent performers. The 2018 does not disappoint: it epitomises the elegance of the vintage. A captivating synthesis of florals and earth, the nose radiates pressed violet, lavender and rose with truffle and tobacco accents. It expands in the mouth with flavour rather than weight or brawn. Red currants and orange are amplified by piercing acidity, and well-formed, magnificently textured tannins are chalky and adequately padded, giving layers and profundity. Not pushed beyond its capacity, this will drink beautifully over the next decade.

At Fuligni they age all Brunellos for 36 months, only seldom are they racked. Mid to deep ruby with orange tinges. There is kinship with the Rosso 2020 in the oak hint, but here it is a bit more complex and less exotic. Iron, cherry, raspberry with complex oak notes hovering over. Cardamon and cumin. A good mouthful of juicy red fruit with fine, but persistent tannins. Refreshing, transparent and elegant. Quite stunning balance and gorgeous chew. 2023-2032