Vosne Romanee Suchots, Domaine Jean Grivot 2009

Moderate reduction blocks an evaluation of the nose but the ripe, rich, generous and fleshy medium-bodied flavors are pure silk and velvet on the lacy and stunningly long finish. This is easily the most seductive wine in the range yet the buried tannins will permit this to have a long life. In short, this is a textbook Suchots.

Tasted out of barrel at the Domaine. This has a more opulent, perhaps exotic, gourmand bouquet compared to the Beaumonts, with very fine delineation and poise, hints of dried blood just in the background. The palate has a taut entry, good acidity and backbone here, lovely depth of flavour with red-berried fruit, dried blood and a touch of dried orange peel towards the persistent, grippy, quite masculine finish. Excellent. Quintessential Suchots. Tasted November 2010.

The 2009 Vosne-Romanee Les Suchots is likely to require considerable patience. A dark core of introspective fruit occasionally emerges, but this remains reticent and inward. The wine will not come to the taster, rather readers will have to seek out the qualities that lie within this superbly pedigreed, exceptional wine. The finish is long, weightless and totally divine. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2034.