Moulin A Vent Le Styx, Domaine Jules Desjourneys 2017

The 2017 Moulin-à-Vent Les Styx is deep, concentrated and tightly wound, unfurling in the glass with a brooding bouquet of wild plums, crushed cassis, incense, burning embers and licorice that only hints at the complexity to come with bottle age. Medium to full-bodied, elegantly muscular and multidimensional, it's layered and intense, with rich but exquisitely refined structuring tannins and racy girdling acids. Anyone looking for contemporary Beaujolais capable of replicating the feats of longevity realized by the great wines of the 1920s, 1930s and 1940s should consider laying down a few bottles.