Gevrey Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques, Domaine Armand Rousseau 2023

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques was one of the more backward, primary wines in the range when I visited. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of cassis, dark berries, burning embers and orange zest, it's medium to full-bodied, rich and layered, with a sweet, creamy core of fruit framed by an elegantly muscular chassis of powdery tannin.

A much denser purple. Coming after the Ruchottes, the Clos St-Jacques is like chalk and cheese, yet these are two great wines. This is much more structured, and while the fruit at the front of the palate is impressive enough, there arrives a wealth of darker berries behind, but no feeling of heat.

Startlingly complex and rich out of barrel, seemingly skipping the phase of youthful fruitiness and progressing to a deep and savoury character. To be sure, there is a rich plummy fruit, but also notes of game, earth and flinty minerals to add interest. The texture is firm but not astringent and the finish is gratifyingly persistent. This wine deserves its reputation as one of the greats; it should open well in five to 10 years and will continue to improve for decades. (Drink between 2030-2070)