Corton Charlemagne, Louis Jadot 2021

Cooler and airier aromas include those of mostly green apple, mineral reduction, crushed fennel and white flowers. There is almost painful intensity to the beautifully textured if slightly less concentrated medium-bodied flavors that exude a pungent stoniness on the tautly muscular, moderately austere and bone-dry finale that goes on and on. It's rare that the Jadot CC appears more interesting than the Demoiselles but at this very early juncture, it seems to have a slight edge. Either way, this is terrific.

Aromas of lime zest, freshly baked bread, pear, white flowers and wet stones preface the 2021 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru (Domaine des Héritiers Jadot), a full-bodied, ample and satiny wine that's chalky and structured, with notable concentration, racy acids and a long, resonant finish. It's a very strong performance that transcends any of the vintage's limitations.

Fresh clear colour, with a sense of weight but more crystalline here as you would hope. A little lemony note alongside a waxiness, promising. Tight and long, as yet undemonstrative, but this may very well grow further from here. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted: October 2022