Corton Charlemagne, Henri Boillot 2010

This is presently sufficiently reduced that I would strongly recommend decanting it if you're tempted to try one young. Here the aromatic profile is distinctly different from any of the preceding grands crus as the primary fruit element is green rather than white or yellow though there are apple, pear and plenty of mineral notes in the background. The rich, powerful and focused big-bodied flavors exhibit almost painful intensity as there is a plethora of mouth coating extract that buffers the very firm tannic spine that allows all of this size and weight to remain exquisitely well-balanced. This is not quite as complex or persistent as the Montrachet but it's not far off and in any case, it does precisely what it's supposed to do which is to be an excellent example of Corton-Charlemagne, not Montrachet.

Bright pale yellow. Extremely closed nose hints at gunflint and menthol. Dense and pure on entry, then as powerful as a solid in the middle, with explosive lift to the flavors of white pepper, mint and dusty stone. Expands with air to fill the mouth without giving any impression of weight. Finishes with a convincing saline tang and outstanding persistence. This has the structure of a top red Burgundy: I'd forget about it for at least eight years.