Clos de Vougeot, Thibault Liger Belair 2023

The 2023 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru includes 15% whole cluster from the old vines in the southern part of the parcel, planted in 1947, and underwent more punching down. It has a well-defined bouquet, understated at first but ultimately quite seductive with slightly earthy red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with pretty red berry fruit laced with brown spices and white pepper. Very harmonious and poised with impressive length, this should keep pace with the 2022 as it ages in bottle, though it is cut in a more finessed style. (Drink between 2027-2048)

All destemmed, medium ruby colour, the nose has an attractive coherence to the fruit, this is far from the most structured Clos Vougeot but it is a lovely wine, with a delicious deep strawberry and raspberry fruit, perhaps a fractional salinity to finish but much less than in Les St-Georges, and a very seductive length. Will it tighten up later on? Joyous and juicy now, yet will surely gain the expected structure at the finish with another few months in barrel. Drink from 2032-2040. Tasted Nov 2024.