Chambertin, Domaine Armand Rousseau 2023

A more restrained if even spicier nose is comprised by aromas of dark plum, exotic tea, earth, the sauvage and a lovely array of floral elements. I very much like the texture and minerality of the bigger-bodied but sleek favors that also display focused power on the moderately austere, hugely long and beautifully well-balanced finale. This is slightly less austere and compact than it usually is though with that said, it should have no trouble amply repaying long-term cellaring. (Drink starting 2041)

Rousseau's 2023 Chambertin Grand Cru is lovely, wafting from the glass with aromas of cassis, plums and sweet berry fruit, mingled with notions of licorice, vine smoke and spices. Full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it's unctuous and seamless, with sweet, powdery tannins, succulent acids and an expansive finish.

An even imperial purple. Broad shoulders from the start. Leave it a minute in the glass for the oak to settle down. The wine is only just beginning to show itself, but the massive structure will support the noble deep red fruit magnificently. The complete sense of harmony has been maintained. Just waiting for the fruit to return after spitting and here it comes.

The 2023 Rousseau Chambertin seems loathe to divulge its secrets; there is a forward, pretty black cherry and plum fruit aroma, but it seems to lack the gamey depth of the Clos St-Jacques and it is not yet showing the voluptuous, sensual nature of the Clos de Bèze. Experience tells us that with time this will blossom, and everything is in the right place, but at least for now it is not as expressive as the other cuvées. Cyrielle Rousseau explains that it takes longer to open because their parcel is at the base of the combe in the cool part of Chambertin. (Drink between 2030-2100)