Chablis la Forest, René et Vincent Dauvissat 2014

Bright, pale yellow. Lovely perfumed lift to the aromas and flavors of lemon zest, grapefruit and white flowers. Tactile and dense but very closed on the palate, combining a sexy sweetness for the year with powerful salinity and superb depth. Most impressive today on the energetic, slowly mounting, palate-staining finish, which leaves the retronasal passage quivering. Premier cru Chablis from the region's left bank does not get much better than this.

This is more restrained still, indeed so much so that the nose only reluctantly reveals its notes of classic Chablis aromas that include green fruit, iodine, tidal pool and oyster shell. There is outstanding volume and almost painful intensity to the medium-bodied flavors that brim with a fine minerality before concluding in a stony, long and impeccably well-balanced finale where once again a hint of bitter lemon appears. This will need a few years of bottle age to fully harmonize and to become more accessible.